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East Meets South
at a Delta Table

by Joan Nathan

CLARKSDALE, Miss. — In this town in the Delta, home of the blues and Muddy Waters, cooks are sizzling catfish and collards and crayfish every day and night. But you don't expect to find those home chefs stir-frying them or steaming them in a giant backyard wok.

But the Chow family, like the other hundred or so Chinese-Americans here with Delta roots going back a century or more, use the ingredients at hand and the techniques passed on for generations.

"What we eat connects us so that we know we are both Chinese and Mississippi Delta folks," Gilroy Chow said in his thick Southern drawl as he cooked crayfish Cantonese style in an outdoor wok.

Near the crayfish, an eight-pound catfish was cooking in another wok. The fish, too big for a poacher, was a gift to the Chows from a fellow member of the local Baptist church. He had caught it that morning in the Mississippi, and now it was simmering in the giant wok. Covered with aluminum foil and balanced on a large propane burner, the wok is a family heirloom brought over from China. More ... Last Week



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