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From Your Own Rialto,
the Refreshing Tastes of Venice

by Nigella Lawson

Tell anyone that you are going to Venice and you are likely to hear how bad the food is there. This is partly because people are keen to show how street-smart they are: to be loftily disdainful of the food is to show you are no mere tourist.

It is pitifully easy to eat badly in Venice, but the food is not as terrible as people say. It's just that the restaurants seem to vie with one another to disappoint.

But you can eat well, and for those of us who also travel to take back something savored, there is much to feast the eyes on. I used to rent a little apartment there, and visited the city as much to cook as to wander along the water-lined ways. Last month I was there ostensibly for the Biennale, but found time to visit the city's perennial and breathtakingly beautiful installation, the great market of the Rialto, with its operatic displays of fruit, vegetables and fish so fresh you get no whiff of them even as you walk past the shimmering stalls.

For those of us used to seeing fish sold as sad, denatured slabs bound in plastic, daring anyone to buy it, the fish in Venice is a miraculous spectacle. To see it is to want to cook it, even if the cooking had to take place on my return home. I would much rather come back inspired to cook the local speciality, bigoli in salsa — whole-wheat spaghetti in a syrupy sauce of slow-cooked onions and anchovies — or a plate of juicy coral shrimp with beans the deep damask pink of a Venetian palazzo's walls, than return laden with Murano glass and feathered masks. More ... Cooking Articles


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