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A Perfect Change-Up With
Bluefish, Sausage and Clams

by Sam Sifton

WESTPORT, Mass. - Wherever Chris Schlesinger goes, padding barefoot around his beachfront property here, there is fire. Everywhere is the scent of burning oak and the shimmery sight of heat rising from a grill. He might be preparing food. He might simply be getting rid of some old chairs, sending them to carbon in a whoosh of burning gasoline. At his restaurant, the East Coast Grill, in Cambridge, Mass., fire is as important a part of his cooking as the ingredients themselves. It is his friend and his playmate. He likes to burn.

"Everybody stresses recipes, but it doesn't work that way," he said, piling fresh logs onto glowing coals in the round fire pit he dug into his patio six years ago. "Technique is the whole deal." He pointed to the resulting flames, which were roughly equivalent in size and demeanor to a chained pit bull.

"Start with your fire," he said. "You're going to cook clams on a grill, you want a big fire."

On the menu: littleneck clams dug from the sandy flats of the Westport River, which runs north from here on the tide, parallel to the Rhode Island border. Also local bluefish, filleted and grilled alongside a few lengths of chourico, the garlicky pork sausage that is made in nearby New Bedford by the great-great-grandchildren of Portuguese whaling men. Pork and shellfish are a classic Portuguese combination, he explained. And here on the shore of Buzzards Bay, where the blues come in summer as surely as the tourists, bluefish goes into the mix as well. More ... Cooking Articles


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